Yusho is a relatively new, self described Yakitori style restaurant on the border of the Logan Square and Avondale neighborhoods. Yakitori is a form of Japanese cooking where meats are cooked over an open fire or charcoal. The kitchen is in capable hands, as Yusho was opened by Matthias Merges, who spent the last 14 years as the executive chef at Charlie Trotter's eponymous Chicago restaurant.
Yusho is been a recipient of good pub from their opening, and I was looking forward to trying their food out. The food is mostly smaller plates, though there are some larger main dishes. Equally as exciting as their food was the cocktail program, which has been getting the same rave reviews. Looking at the cocktail menu, it was interesting seeing so many unique house-made tinctures, bitters, and other ingredients.
Soul of the Sensei | DH Krahn Gin, El Dorado 3 Year Rum, Lime, Textured Tangerine, Kampo Bitters
I started out with a gin and rum concoction, as I have been really enjoying gin as my spirit of choice lately. I really liked this bright, tart, complex cocktail. The textured tangerine was the juice mixed with agar agar, which gave the drink a slightly richer mouthfeel, one I particularly enjoyed.
Cod | Chawanmushi, Gingko Nuts, Shiitake
My first dish consisted of a few pieces of fried cod perched above a savory Chawanmushi. Chawanmushi is a traditional Japanese savory egg custard, usually made with Dashi. This was a fascinating study in textures with the silky smooth custard, chewy earthiness of the diced shiitakes, and the crisp fried cod. Interestingly, there appeared to be a mix up, and the gingko nuts were left off, with fried hominy taking its place. I don't know how it tasted with the gingko nuts, but I was perfectly happy with the hominy, adding a crispy nuttiness to the fray.
Draught Cocktail of the Day - Gin Pineapple Rickey
Another interesting aspect of Yusho's cocktail program is a rotating draught cocktail. A cocktail is mixed in advance and carbonated together, and is poured from a tap. Much in the way soups can taste better after a night in the fridge, the theory is that the components will mingle together and create a more harmonious drink. Today's cocktail was a gin pineapple rickey. Fortunately, the sweetness from the pineapple didn't overpower the other flavors, and made for a crisp, citrusy drink. I can see these being very dangerous, as I could have put down quite a few if I wasn't going out for drinks after the meal.
Salmon Roe | Takoyaki, Chile, Bonito, Scallions
I had to try perhaps their most famous dish so far, the salmon roe takoyaki. Takoyaki is a traditional Japanese pancake ball, filled with octopus. This version is impressive in the fact that it is stuffed with salmon roe that is barely warmed, so that you can still pop the small eggs in your mouth as you chew. The spicy ginger dressing went great with these balls, reminiscent of the ginger dressing served on salad you get at sushi bars.
Close Up of the Salmon Roe Inside the Takoyaki
Soft Serve | Green Cardamom, Rhubarb, Ginger
I was getting a bit full at this point, but decided to try the soft serve ice cream, recommended by my bartender. The green cardamom ice cream was pleasantly aromatic, and was topped with a rhubarb compote and candied ginger. This was very good - someone let me know when they start selling green cardamom ice cream at the grocery store.
I really enjoyed my first visit to Yusho. I will be back with a group next time so that I can sample a wider range of the food and cocktail menu.
